361 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco
Phone: (08) 9381 1800
Tastebuds Alive
For the first time in a long time, I’m excited, and it’s because Meeka has just reminded my tastebuds why they exist.
Meeka is all about heady aromas and pensive flavours; food that captivates you while you eat and commandeers conversations. Each one of head chef Leah’s dishes was a symphony of colour, taste and aroma, with each element playing an integral part in the spectacle. Leah achieves all of this whilst keeping the dishes simple and uncongested.
Meeka is a warm, mother-daughter-run eatery that encompasses what a family-run restaurant is all about. Faye runs the show while her daughter Leah heads up the kitchen. Together, they simply want to produce good food in a pleasant environment – and it’s nice to be there.
Meeka is perfect for those who want to sample a lot of tastes, or take their time and order bits and pieces, at intervals, as needed. Teamed with the quiet, unobtrusive ambience, Meeka is perfect for that business lunch or intimate weekend dinner. Meeka also caters for groups (many of Meeka’s dishes are born to be shared!) and also larger functions in the charming back area.
At only 24 years of age, Leah packs a real punch in the kitchen. Trained here in Perth, she completed her apprenticeship at just 20 but it was during her time in Melbourne, with its melting pot of culinary cultures, that she discovered her passion – Middle Eastern cuisine.
Leah loves good local produce. She utilises nearby Subiaco markets and other community suppliers to create quality, fresh food. She and Faye don’t feel the need to categorise Meeka’s menu but when asked to, they say it’s “modern Australian with Middle Eastern flavours”.
Leah’s dishes seem to speak to you from the ages and with nine years of cooking already under her belt, it’s exciting to think she has come this far already. Meeka’s dishes are designed for sharing between two or a few, whether it’s a romantic dinner, a family get-together or a business meeting.
There’s a great selection of entrees, and small “mezze” that function like Spanish tapas. There are four to five mains and as many “tajines” to choose from, featuring meat, chicken, fish and vegetarian options. I do love the “Set Lunch for Two” – a mezze plate to share, plus a tajine with Israeli cous cous, for about $27 each – an absolute bargain.
Most dishes begin with meat and fresh produce, brought together with Middle Eastern-style spices, techniques and condiments. I loved the Fresh Seafood Tajine with mussels, prawns and squid. Quality seafood swam with Israeli cous cous in a subtle lime and green “harissa” broth. The harissa’s spinach, coriander and green chilli were well balanced with acidity and sweetness. A perfect amount of green chilli reared its head then retreated after I swallowed each mouthful (love that).
Leah served a couple of mezze to really get our juices going! I adored the dates stuffed with a mix goat’s cheese, walnut, prosciutto and “kaitifi”, a wiry, crispy noodle pastry that was spun like gold around the outside. I could have eaten 10 at least, especially with the Alta Pinot Grigio (Adelaide Hills, SA). part of the wine list compiled by Sommilier and Wine Maker Navneet Singh. The zesty wine cut through the creamy, salty, sweetness of the date – memorable.
Next, the crispy, pumpkin and saffron Arancini balls were well-made but it was the sweet almond meal and honey aioli that stole the show. Original. Equally tasty were the “boreks”, delicate folded pastries that contained roast pumpkin, pine nuts and feta. Leah also mixed in rich “labneh” (yoghurt that’s hung up and strained for a couple of days) flavoured with “sumac” (a zesty spice). Delectable.
Leah has tweaked her recipes over time and she isn’t very forthcoming with the finer details – and I don’t blame her. Check out Meeka for great value and simplicity, with the right blend of familiar and foreign.